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surfing…

Posted on December 4, 2005 @ 11:06 pm by massimo | Filed under: blog, fun, swimming, wordpress

surf surfer nias sumatra poynesia aynaku illustration adobe

In march 1990 the small cargo ship I was aboard as a passenger, broke out and died in Nias harbour.
I knew nothing of Nias but that it was a pleasant island very popular among surfers. I had to change my plans and instead of heading Sumatra, I stopped for a while in Nias. I found a nice bungalow and realized quickly that the greatest part of my neighbours were Australian surfers who had settled there since long. We soon became acquainted because of my sporty swimming the same rough waters and right “from the field”, I watched these skilled guys surfing…
Most of all, I learned that surfers are quite a community which, I fancy, has a strong and deep linkage with those ancient Polynesian surfers whose captain Cook’s lieutenant wrote the first account…

Surfers share the apparently basic philosophy of “ wait for THE wave and ride It ” as the culminating act of a lifetime! They don’t joke about and this makes surfboarding more than a simple sport.

This is my blue contribution to Illustration Friday’s topic

3 people have left comments

Nicely done! I like the patterns on the surf board.

Alexa wrote on December 4, 2005 - 11:46 pm CET

wow, I love the patterns on the board as well. that sort of stuff really turns me on.
and a wild sense of moviment that you have captured here

scott hollingsworth wrote on December 8, 2005 - 2:14 am CET

[...] This is my ideal tattooed savage and I reckon well to meet him one day! He has a strong linkage with the Pacific Ocean’s ancient islanders whose captain Cook’s lieutenant wrote the first account… Polynesians and Maori used to have their body completely tattooed: the English sailors liked this habit so much to spread the fashion over Europe. Their attempt was so largely successful that now days fully tattooed bodies, - from top to toe - always belongs to white people. I must say these noveau savages really amaze me greatly, every time I meet them going for a beach strolI… Once I went to a local tattoos -parlour in Kho Samui and tried hard to convince the ever smiling Thai fellow, to buy some doodles of mine which I had precisely done to have somebody’s chest tattooed with (not mine, please…). No way! So nothing remains but tattooing a digital silhouette. Here is my “hammerhead pattern” - a replica of those early sketches of mine. If you like this illustration, my previous posts Neptune and Surfer will not disappoint you! [...]

AYNAKU » tattos wrote on March 12, 2006 - 9:52 am CET

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