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surfing…
Posted on December 4, 2005 @ 11:06 pm by massimo | Filed under: another green world,beach,blog,fashion,fun,illustration,indonesia,island,news,people,swimming,travel,wordpress
In march 1990 the small cargo ship I was aboard as a passenger, broke out and died in Nias harbour.
I knew nothing of Nias but that it was a pleasant island, very popular among surfers. I had to change my plans and instead of going to Sumatra, I stopped in Nias. I got a nice bungalow and I soon realized that all my neighbours were Australian surfers who had settled since long in the island. We soon became acquainted because of my sporty swimming in the same rough waters and I had the chance to watch “from the field” these skilled guys surfing…
Most of all, I learned that surfers are quite a community which, I fancy, has a strong and deep linkage with those ancient Polynesian surfers whose captain Cook’s lieutenant wrote the first account.
All surfers share a basic philosophy: just wait for the very wave and ride It! It is the culminating act of a lifetime? They don’t joke about it and this fact makes surfboarding more than a sport.
This is my blue contribution to Illustration Friday’s topic
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5 people have left comments
Nicely done! I like the patterns on the surf board.
wow, I love the patterns on the board as well. that sort of stuff really turns me on.
and a wild sense of moviment that you have captured here
[...] This is my ideal tattooed savage and I reckon well to meet him one day! He has a strong linkage with the Pacific Ocean’s ancient islanders whose captain Cook’s lieutenant wrote the first account… Polynesians and Maori used to have their body completely tattooed: the English sailors liked this habit so much to spread the fashion over Europe. Their attempt was so largely successful that now days fully tattooed bodies, – from top to toe – always belongs to white people. I must say these noveau savages really amaze me greatly, every time I meet them going for a beach strolI… Once I went to a local tattoos -parlour in Kho Samui and tried hard to convince the ever smiling Thai fellow, to buy some doodles of mine which I had precisely done to have somebody’s chest tattooed with (not mine, please…). No way! So nothing remains but tattooing a digital silhouette. Here is my “hammerhead pattern” – a replica of those early sketches of mine. If you like this illustration, my previous posts Neptune and Surfer will not disappoint you! [...]
Great picture!!! I downloaded it for my screensaver. The story and the picture reminds me of one of my last surf boat trips to Sumatra. It was a great trip and everytime the image shows up on my display I’ve to think about this great trip. Thanks for that!
Bye the way I can really recommend a trip to Sumatra. Good waves for sure! There are a lot of operators or agencies but read some reviews before booking. Not all are good. I was on the star koat I. Good and affordable boat. I booked over http://www.lineupexplorers.com
Love it, the patterns on the surf board are awesome.. would look great on a wall!